Jewellery comes with its own language, from the metals and alloys used to create a piece to the plating, finishes and stones that influence how it looks, wears and should be cared for.
The Crafty Horse Jewellery Glossary is a growing reference to these materials and techniques, explaining what they mean, how they differ and the details worth understanding when choosing jewellery.
Our own pieces begin with solid 925 sterling silver, with finishes including rhodium and rose gold plating and details such as cubic zirconia. As our collections evolve, this glossary will grow with them.
Popular Jewellery terms
Sterling Silver · Rhodium Plating · Rose Gold Plating · Gold Vermeil · Gold Filled · Micron · Cubic Zirconia
A
Alloy
An alloy is made by combining a metal with one or more other elements to change characteristics such as hardness, strength, colour or workability.
Many familiar jewellery materials are alloys. Sterling silver, for example, contains 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, commonly including copper. Rose gold gets much of its characteristic pink-to-red colour from copper added to gold.
Related: Sterling Silver · Rose Gold · Fineness
B
Base Metal
The term base metal can have different meanings depending on context. In metallurgy and jewellery, it is commonly used to distinguish non-precious metals from precious metals such as gold and silver. In product specifications, it may also be used more loosely to refer to the material underneath a plated surface.
To avoid ambiguity, Crafty Horse identifies the underlying material specifically – for example, solid 925 sterling silver with rhodium plating.
Related: Sterling Silver · Plating · Alloy
C
Copper
Copper is a naturally occurring metal recognised by its warm reddish colour and is an important alloying metal in jewellery.
It is commonly used among the additional metals in sterling silver and is particularly important in rose gold, where copper contributes to its characteristic pink-to-red colour. The exact composition of an alloy can vary between manufacturers and applications.
Related: Alloy · Sterling Silver · Rose Gold
Cubic Zirconia
Cubic zirconia, usually abbreviated to CZ, is a man-made crystalline form of zirconium oxide widely used in jewellery.
It is available in different colours and is often used for its clarity and ability to reflect light. Cubic zirconia is considered a diamond simulant, meaning it may resemble a diamond but has different chemical, structural and physical properties. It is not a laboratory-grown diamond.
Despite their similar names, cubic zirconia and zircon are also different materials. Zircon is a naturally occurring mineral and gemstone.
Crafty Horse uses cubic zirconia selectively where the stone details complement rather than overwhelm the form of a design.
Related: Stone Setting · Zircon
E
Electroplating
Electroplating uses an electrical current to deposit a thin layer of material onto the surface of another.
In jewellery, electroplating is one method used to apply metallic surface layers such as gold or rhodium. Because these layers can be extremely fine, their thickness is often measured in microns rather than millimetres.
Related: Plating · Micron · Gold Plating · Rhodium Plating
F
Fine Silver
Fine silver commonly refers to silver of 999 fineness, or 99.9% silver.
It contains a higher proportion of silver than sterling silver but is also comparatively soft and more susceptible to scratching and deformation. This is one reason sterling silver is widely used for jewellery where greater strength is useful.
Related: Sterling Silver · 925 Silver · Fineness
Fineness
Fineness describes the proportion of a precious metal contained within an alloy and is commonly expressed in parts per thousand.
For example:
925 silver = 925 parts silver per 1,000
999 silver = 999 parts silver per 1,000
750 gold = 750 parts gold per 1,000
This means 925 represents 92.5% silver, while 750 represents 75% gold.
Related: Sterling Silver · 925 Silver · Gold · Karat
G
Gold
Gold is a naturally occurring precious metal that has been used for jewellery and personal adornment for thousands of years.
Pure gold is traditionally described as 24 karat. Because pure gold is relatively soft, gold used for jewellery is commonly alloyed with other metals. These metals can influence properties including colour, hardness and workability.
This is how familiar gold alloys including yellow, rose and white gold can be created.
Related: Karat · Fineness · Alloy · Rose Gold · Yellow Gold · Gold Vermeil
Gold Filled
Gold-filled jewellery is constructed by bonding a layer of gold or gold alloy to another metal.
Despite its name, gold filled does not mean that the inside of the jewellery is filled with gold. The gold forms an outer layer bonded to an underlying material.
Gold-filled jewellery differs from conventional gold plating in both its manufacturing method and how the amount of gold is specified. In markets such as the United States, terminology including gold filled is subject to specific requirements concerning the gold layer and its proportion of the article’s weight.
Gold filled and gold vermeil are also different constructions. Vermeil uses sterling silver beneath a gold surface, whereas gold-filled jewellery typically uses a cheaper underlying metal.
Worth knowing: Gold filled, gold vermeil and gold plated aren’t simply three names for different thicknesses of gold plating.
Related: Gold Vermeil · Gold Plating · Solid Gold · Karat
Gold Plating
Gold plating describes a layer of gold or gold alloy applied over the surface of another material.
The term gold plated alone doesn’t tell you everything about a piece. The underlying material, gold fineness, plating thickness and method of application can all differ.
Because the gold forms a surface layer rather than the entire structure, gold-plated jewellery is different from solid gold jewellery.
Related: Plating · Micron · Rose Gold Plating · Gold Vermeil · Gold Filled
Gold Vermeil
Gold vermeil generally describes jewellery with sterling silver beneath a layer of gold. However, the technical definitions and guidance surrounding the term differ internationally.
This makes it useful to look beyond the word vermeil itself and consider the underlying silver, gold fineness, plating thickness and overall plating system.
For example, US guidance includes specific requirements around jewellery described as vermeil, while UK guidance treats the description of gold-plated silver differently. Australia does not have an equivalent widely prescribed micron-based definition that we have identified.
Worth knowing: There isn’t one worldwide definition of gold vermeil. Our complete guide explores how the terminology is used in Australia, the United States and United Kingdom.
Related: Sterling Silver · 18K Gold · Gold Plating · Micron · Palladium · Nickel-Free
Read more: What Is Gold Vermeil?
Gold Karats: 24K, 22K, 18K, 14K, 10K and 9K
Gold purity is commonly expressed in karats, abbreviated to K, on a scale of 24.
The karat number tells you how many parts out of 24 are gold. The remaining proportion consists of other metals within the alloy, which can influence characteristics such as colour, hardness and workability.
| Gold karat | Gold content | Approx. fineness | Other metals |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24K | ~99.9%+ | 999 | Trace amounts |
| 22K | 91.7% | 916/917 | 8.3% |
| 18K | 75% | 750 | 25% |
| 14K | 58.3% | 583/585* | 41.7% |
| 10K | 41.7% | 417 | 58.3% |
| 9K | 37.5% | 375 | 62.5% |
*Hallmarking fineness standards and conventions can differ by market, so you may commonly see 585 associated with 14K gold rather than a mathematical 583.
24K Gold
24K is essentially pure gold and is typically around 99.9% gold or higher.
Its rich yellow colour comes with comparatively high softness and malleability, which is one reason lower-karat gold alloys are widely used for jewellery.
22K Gold
22K gold contains approximately 91.7% gold, with the remaining 8.3% consisting of other metals.
It retains a high proportion of gold and a strong yellow colour while incorporating alloying metals that alter its physical properties.
18K Gold
18K gold contains 18 parts gold out of 24, equivalent to 75% gold or 750 fineness.
The remaining 25% consists of other metals. The composition of those metals can be adjusted to create different colours and properties.
This means 18K isn’t necessarily yellow gold. An 18K alloy can be formulated as yellow, rose or white gold while still containing 75% gold.
14K Gold
14K gold contains approximately 58.3% gold, with the remainder consisting of other metals within the alloy.
Because a greater proportion of the alloy consists of other metals than in 18K gold, its colour and physical properties can differ. Like 18K, 14K can be produced in yellow, rose and white gold formulations.
10K Gold
10K gold contains approximately 41.7% gold and 58.3% other metals.
It is particularly relevant when comparing international jewellery terminology because 10K is the minimum gold fineness referenced in US FTC guidance for certain gold descriptions, including the gold used in qualifying vermeil representations. US Federal Trade Commission – Jewellery Guides
9K Gold
9K gold contains 37.5% gold, equivalent to 375 fineness, with the remaining 62.5% consisting of other metals.
9K gold is commonly encountered in markets including Australia and the United Kingdom. The UK recognises 375 as a legal gold fineness standard for hallmarking. British Hallmarking Council — Hallmarking Guidance
Does a higher karat mean better gold?
Not necessarily – higher karat means a higher proportion of gold.
For example:
18K = 75% gold
14K ≈ 58.3% gold
9K = 37.5% gold
But better depends on what someone values in a piece of jewellery. Different alloy compositions influence colour, hardness, workability, price and other characteristics.
Karat measures gold content, not an overall jewellery quality score.
Karat vs micron: what’s the difference?
These two measurements are easily confused when discussing plated jewellery.
Karat tells you the proportion of gold in the gold alloy.
Microns tell you the thickness of an applied gold layer.
One measurement doesn’t replace the other.
Related: Gold · Yellow Gold · Rose Gold · Gold Vermeil · Fineness · Micron
H
Hallmark
A hallmark is an official mark used within a recognised hallmarking system to verify information about the precious-metal content of an article.
It isn’t necessarily the same thing as a simple 925 stamp.
Hallmarking systems vary internationally. For example, under the UK system a complete hallmark contains compulsory marks identifying the sponsor or maker, metal and fineness, and the Assay Office responsible for testing and marking the article.
Worth knowing: A piece stamped 925 isn’t necessarily independently hallmarked.
Related: 925 Stamp · Fineness · Sterling Silver
Hammered Finish
A hammered finish is created by forming small impressions across a metal surface.
These variations change the way light reflects from the metal and can create anything from a subtle texture to a much more pronounced decorative finish.
Related: High Polish · Jewellery Finish
High Polish
A high-polish finish creates a smooth, highly reflective metal surface.
Its reflective appearance also means scratches and normal surface wear may become visible with use.
Related: Hammered Finish · Jewellery Finish
K
Karat
Karat, abbreviated K, describes the proportion of pure gold within a gold alloy on a scale of 24.
24K = essentially pure gold
18K = 75% gold
14K = approximately 58.3% gold
9K = 37.5% gold
For example, 18K gold consists of 18 parts gold out of 24, with the remaining six parts consisting of other metals within the alloy.
In Australia and the UK, carat may also be used when describing gold purity. This shouldn’t be confused with the carat used to measure gemstone weight.
Related: Gold · Fineness · Alloy · 18K Gold
M
Micron
A micron, or micrometre, written µm, is one-thousandth of a millimetre.
1 micron = 0.001 mm
Microns are useful when discussing jewellery plating because the deposited metal layers can be extremely thin.
For perspective:
0.5 micron = 0.0005 mm
1 micron = 0.001 mm
2.5 microns = 0.0025 mm
3 microns = 0.003 mm
Does a higher micron number mean thicker plating?
Yes. Two or three microns describe a physically thicker deposited layer than one micron.
However, plating thickness alone cannot tell you exactly how long a plated surface will last. Wear can also be influenced by the jewellery type, friction, frequency of wear, plating system, care and environmental exposure.
Worth knowing: 18K and 2 microns describe completely different things. 18K describes the gold content of an alloy; 2 microns describes the thickness of the applied layer.
Related: Plating · Gold Vermeil · Gold Plating · Electroplating
N
Nickel
Nickel is a metal used in many alloys and has also traditionally been used in jewellery manufacturing and some plating systems.
Nickel is particularly relevant to jewellery because nickel released from an article can cause allergic contact dermatitis in people who have become sensitised to it. This is why nickel release from jewellery is regulated in some markets.
Related: Nickel-Free · Palladium Barrier Layer · Plating
Nickel-Free
Nickel-free generally indicates that nickel hasn’t been intentionally used in the material or manufacturing process being described.
It shouldn’t automatically be interpreted as a guarantee that a piece can never cause a skin reaction, as sensitivities can involve materials other than nickel.
Related: Nickel · Palladium · Gold Vermeil
P
Palladium
Palladium is a precious metal belonging to the platinum group of metals, alongside metals including platinum and rhodium.
Among its jewellery applications, palladium can be used as part of a multi-layer plating system.
Crafty Horse uses palladium as the intermediate layer beneath the gold in our developing gold vermeil pieces.
Related: Palladium Barrier Layer · Gold Vermeil · Plating · Nickel-Free
Palladium Barrier Layer
A palladium barrier layer is a thin intermediate layer of palladium applied between an underlying metal and a final plated surface.
When gold is plated over silver, an intermediate barrier layer can be used to limit diffusion between the silver substrate and the outer gold coating. Palladium is one precious metal used for this purpose.
For example:
2-micron 18K yellow gold
↑
Nickel-free palladium barrier layer
↑
Solid 925 sterling silver
The palladium isn’t visible in the finished jewellery. It forms part of the plating system between the sterling silver and gold.
Why use nickel-free palladium?
Nickel can also be used within plating systems, including as an intermediate layer. However, nickel release from jewellery can cause allergic contact dermatitis in people sensitive to it.
Related: Palladium · Nickel · Nickel-Free · Gold Vermeil · Sterling Silver
Plating
Jewellery plating involves applying a thin layer of one metal over the surface of another material.
It can alter the colour, finish and surface characteristics of jewellery without changing the material forming its underlying structure.
For example:
Rhodium-plated sterling silver = sterling silver underneath + rhodium surface.
Rose-gold-plated sterling silver = sterling silver underneath + rose-gold surface.
Because plating is a surface treatment, it can gradually wear through use and friction.
Related: Electroplating · Micron · Rhodium Plating · Rose Gold Plating · Gold Plating
R
Rhodium
Rhodium is a precious metal belonging to the platinum group of metals. It has a bright, silvery-white appearance and strong resistance to corrosion.
In jewellery, rhodium is commonly encountered as a very thin plated surface rather than as the main structural metal.
Related: Rhodium Plating · Sterling Silver · Plating
Rhodium Plating
Rhodium plating applies a thin layer of rhodium over another metal.
When intact over sterling silver, rhodium creates a barrier between the underlying silver surface and its surrounding environment while producing a bright white-metal finish.
Because rhodium remains a surface layer, it can gradually wear in areas exposed to friction.
Many Crafty Horse silver designs are made from solid 925 sterling silver with a rhodium-plated finish.
Worth knowing: Rhodium-plated sterling silver isn’t a choice between rhodium or silver. The jewellery is sterling silver underneath, with rhodium applied to its surface.
Related: Rhodium · Sterling Silver · Plating · Tarnish
Read more: What Is Rhodium Plating?
Rose Gold
Rose gold is a gold alloy whose pink-to-reddish colour is primarily produced by the addition of copper.
There isn’t one universal recipe for rose gold. Different proportions of gold, copper and other alloying metals can produce variations in colour.
An 18K rose gold alloy contains 75% gold, with the remaining 25% consisting of other alloying metals.
Rose gold became particularly fashionable in nineteenth-century Europe and has historical associations with Russia, where pink-toned gold was sometimes known as Russian gold.
Worth knowing: Rose gold isn’t simply yellow gold coloured pink. Its colour comes from the composition of the alloy itself.
Related: Gold · Copper · Alloy · Karat · Rose Gold Plating
Rose Gold Plating
Rose gold plating applies a thin surface layer of rose-coloured gold alloy over another material.
This differs from solid rose gold because only the outer plated layer consists of the rose-gold alloy.
Crafty Horse rose gold pieces use solid 925 sterling silver beneath the rose gold plating.
Because rose gold formulations differ, precise shades can vary between alloys, from softer pinks through to warmer copper-toned finishes.
Related: Rose Gold · Sterling Silver · Gold Plating · Micron
Read more: What Is Rose Gold Plating?
S
Solid Gold
Solid gold jewellery is made from a gold alloy throughout the piece rather than having gold applied only to its surface.
Solid gold doesn’t necessarily mean pure 24K gold. For example, solid 18K gold contains 75% gold throughout its gold-alloy construction, while solid 14K gold contains approximately 58.3%.
This distinguishes solid gold from gold-plated, gold-filled and gold-vermeil jewellery, where gold forms an outer layer over another material.
Worth knowing: Solid describes the construction; karat describes the proportion of gold in the alloy.
Related: Gold · 18K Gold · Karat · Gold Filled · Gold Vermeil · Gold Plating
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is an alloy containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, commonly including copper.
Pure or fine silver is comparatively soft, so alloying it creates a material better suited to many jewellery applications while retaining a very high proportion of silver.
The number 925 represents this composition: 925 of every 1,000 parts are silver.
Sterling silver can retain its natural silver surface or receive additional finishes such as rhodium or gold plating.
Solid 925 sterling silver forms the underlying precious metal of the Crafty Horse jewellery collection.
Worth knowing: 925 isn’t a quality score out of 1,000. It describes the proportion of silver contained within the alloy.
Related: 925 Silver · Fine Silver · Fineness · Rhodium Plating
Read more: What Is Sterling Silver?
925 Silver
925 silver is sterling silver containing 925 parts silver per thousand, equivalent to 92.5% silver.
The remaining 7.5% consists of other metals within the alloy.
See: Sterling Silver
925 Stamp
A 925 stamp indicates a claimed silver fineness of 925 parts per thousand.
It shouldn’t automatically be described as a formal hallmark. Depending on the jurisdiction, hallmarking can involve independent testing and additional official marks.
Related: Sterling Silver · Hallmark · Fineness
T
Tarnish
Tarnish is a change that develops on a metal’s surface through chemical reactions with substances in its environment.
With silver, this can produce the familiar darkening or discolouration of the surface over time.
Tarnish is a surface phenomenon and doesn’t mean that sterling silver has stopped being silver.
Care requirements can differ between plated and unplated sterling silver because abrasive polishing of plated jewellery can also affect its outer surface layer.
Related: Sterling Silver · Rhodium Plating · Jewellery Care
Y
Yellow Gold
Gold is a naturally occurring precious metal with a characteristic yellow colour and has been used for jewellery and personal adornment for thousands of years.
Gold is naturally yellow. Yellow gold is the term used in jewellery to distinguish gold that retains its familiar golden colour from other gold alloys, such as rose gold and white gold.
Pure 24K gold has a rich yellow colour but is relatively soft. For many jewellery applications, gold is alloyed with other metals to alter properties such as hardness and workability while retaining a yellow-gold appearance.
The karat tells us how much gold is present in the alloy:
18K yellow gold = 75% gold
14K yellow gold = approximately 58.3% gold
10K yellow gold = approximately 41.7% gold
9K yellow gold = 37.5% gold
The remaining proportion consists of other alloying metals. Because the precise alloy formulation can vary, the colour of yellow gold can differ subtly between karats and manufacturers.
Worth knowing: The word yellow doesn’t mean the gold has been coloured yellow. Gold is naturally yellow; the term simply distinguishes traditional yellow-coloured gold from rose and white gold alloys.
Related: Gold · Gold Karats · 18K Gold · Gold Vermeil · Rose Gold · White Gold
A growing jewellery reference
The Crafty Horse Jewellery Glossary will continue to grow alongside our collections.
We research technical information using recognised jewellery, gemmological and government sources wherever possible, while specifications relating specifically to Crafty Horse jewellery are based on information supplied for our pieces.
Sources & further reading
GIA — Sterling Silver & Precious Metals
GIA — Cubic Zirconia & Gem Simulants
US Federal Trade Commission — Buying Platinum, Gold & Silver Jewellery